Tasting Notes: Without question Arpepe make the most complex Nebbiolo outside of Piemonte. Their Rosso is very approachable with the softness of Langhe Nebbiolo but the structure and depth of La Morra Barolo. Bright cherry, eucalyptus, floral with a distinct minerality. The grapes are fermented with native yeasts and aged for short periods in old chestnut oak and cement.
“From the very beginning, they noticed here that the best performing grape was Nebbiolo,” Isabella told us as we stood under Ar.Pe.Pe’s dramatic Rocca de Piro vineyard, which rises from the winery like a Roman theater to the Grumello castle above. “And there is also the very serious possibility that Nebbiolo was born in Valtellina,” she offered.
A recent study of the vine’s genetics done by Piemonte University and a local research center found that Valtellina has more diversity of Nebbiolo clones than the Langhe, a suggestion that perhaps its been in the area longer. “They also found some plants here that are genetically linked to Nebbiolo. So they are probably predecessors. Only genetics and only a lot of time can give you such biodiversity.”
There are deep undertones of cherry-like fruit, a bouquet of flowers, and two delicate notes that shine through only on the palate: watermelon and honeycomb. The tannins are so feathery on this wine — I wanted to savor it ever so slowly — and there was a tantalizing mineral feel to the finish. Spontaneous fermentation. A short cold (natural) maceration of 24-48 hours followed by a pied de cuve fermentation start. Then followed by four days of maceration in 50hl wood barrels. The grapes undergo a long, gentle maceration with the skins in tini, before being pressed off to big old chestnut casks. Fermentation and maturation takes place in wood, then three months in cement and at least six months in the bottle before being released on the market.
Estate History: In 1984, Arturo Pelizzatti Perego decided to resurrect his family's winery under the moniker Ar. Pe. Pe. His father and grandfather had both run their family winery in Valtellina but sold it in the 1970s. Today, Arturo's three children, Isabella, Emanuele and Guido continue their father’s work as the family's fifth generation of growers.
The mountain region of Valtellina sits near the Swiss border and is one of the most picturesque of Italy. From steep, south-facing, and terraced mountain vineyards the Pelizzattis produce beautifully restrained styles of Nebbiolo, or Chivanesca as it is called in Valtellina. They choose to stay loyal to the region's traditions and avoid the trappings of modern winemaking technology, instead opting for long macerations and old large-format chestnut and oak barrels.
